batik winotosastro

 

Batik Winotosastro

Jl.Tirtodipuran 54
Yogyakarta 55143
Indonesia
Tel: +62(0)274.375.218
Fax: +62(0)274.372.133



These Javanese words describe an ancient knowledge of the step-by-step process of traditional batik making

The Batik Process for tulis batik: All wax lines are hand drawn on the cloth with the canting tool. (pronounced chan' ting)

Nyorek: Drawing the motifs using pencil
Nglowong: First waxing the outline using a canting tool
Isen-isen and Nembok: Filling motifs and second waxing parts to remain white
 
Medel: first coloring
Ngebyok: Wax removing in boiling water
Mbironi & Nembok: Re-waxing parts to remain dark blue & cover parts to remain white
 
Nyoga: Second coloring by dipping in soga brown
Nglorod: Removing all the wax in boiling water
 

Batik Process for cap (chap), a copper stamp used to impress the wax design on the cloth

Start with white cambric or silk
Nglowong: Cover with cap for first waxing. This covers over all areas that will be waxed in the entire design. This first wax is formulated so it can be scraped off easily.
Nembok: In addition, a second cap is stamped over the top of the first waxing, covering only the areas that will remain white in the final piece. The nembok wax is stronger so it will withstand the different dye baths.
 
Medel: Cloth is dipped in first dye bath, for traditional colors this is the indigo blue dye.
Ngerok: Now the wax is very carefully scraped away from the sections that will be the second color, in this case, soga brown.
Mbironi: Third waxing. Now the dark blue is covered in certain areas, along with the tiny white dots or other isen patterns. This keeps the dots clean and bright against the dark blue.
 
Nyoga: Second dyebath in this case, soga brown.
Ngebyok: Remove all the wax in boiling water
 

These pictures can tell you only a small part of the story watching a cap master at work is to see artistry in action. He makes it look so simple!

He begins by smoothing out the white cloth, usually cotton but sometimes silk, on a padded table. The wax pan is heating up on his right. Caps are warming to the correct temperature.

Lightly touching the cap, he knows exactly when it's hot enough. Tapping the cap on the cloth-covered felt pad in the wax pan several times, and with steady grace, he stamps the prepared cloth with the cap.

Quickly now, he sets it again on the wax pad, then precisely lines up the pattern to the previous stamp and imprints the next one.

The rhythm is vital.

Too cool and the wax doesn't penetrate.

Too hot and it spreads out, erasing the delicate lines in the pattern.

If he doesn't line up one stamp to the next exactly, the pattern looks like individual squares instead of a smooth, continuous design.

Now here's the fun part! Try out the cap for yourself learn how to draw with hot wax and a canting tool. It's a perfect souvenir of your time in Yogya.

Discover how you can join a batik workshop and learn about making batik.